Koufonisia, the turquoise paradise with the lacy beaches

Also available in: Ελληνικά

If you are going to Koufonisia by conventional ferry and you do not have a car with you, do not rush down the stairs to disembark. Stay on deck for a while and enjoy the unique turquoise color of the Aegean Sea as you enter their small harbor.

Several years ago on our first visit to Koufonisia, our arrival on the island and the stunning beach with the turquoise waters in the harbour were memorable. Especially if you are coming directly from Piraeus and it is your first island, you will need several minutes to recover from the pleasant surprise.

Accommodation in Pano Koufonissi

Of course, the beach at the port is not the best on the island, which in itself is a reason to visit Koufonisia. Here we have to emphasize that although we say Koufonisia, most of us mean Pano Koufonissi, where the port, Chora and most of the beautiful beaches are located.

The alternative Koufonisia

A few words about the recent past before moving on to the modern past. In the 80s and 90s, Koufonisia was an alternative destination. Although close to the cosmopolitan Naxos, the larger islands attracted the masses and left Koufonisia and its alternatives in “peace”.

With a small campsite that served a relatively small percentage of its fanatical visitors, the beaches were the main place of accommodation for the “homeless” who enjoyed all the pleasures of the summer nature of the Aegean Cycladic islands.

The beaches were dominated by nudism, a habit that remains, in an overwhelmingly smaller percentage of course, even today.

The Koufonisia of today

We move to the present and find Koufonisia to be at the forefront of in destinations in recent years. They are being heard a lot this year too, although we think they will be heard more and more each year.

So all the blah blah sowed the seeds of doubt as to whether we should go or prefer something quieter or even postpone our trip to Koufonisia for quieter September times.

Finally leaving the beautiful, and still alternative, Donoussa we decided to try our luck and see what it’s like to visit Koufonisia in July 2016.

From our first hour on the island and as we were walking to our accommodation on the side where the camping used to be (we forgot to tell you that for several years now the camping has not existed) we realized that while many more houses may have been built, and construction may be a rather healthy industry on the island, the energy that this Cycladic land and its sea emanates has not lost any of its intensity.

Hiking in the turquoise Aegean Sea

The walk from the small harbour or even better from the mill on the right (as you can see the harbour from the sea) to, why not, Pori beach, remains something that cannot be easily described in words so it is better to see the photos directly or even better to go and see it for yourself.

From the very first moments, after you leave the settlement, the small bays with turquoise shallow waters begin. If you’re not wearing a swimsuit you’ll probably regret it as the temptations for short dives are great.

In the saltwater pool

Overlooking the uninhabited island of Keros, which was an important cult centre in the Aegean where archaeological masterpieces of the Cycladic civilisation and prehistoric Greece have been discovered, you will walk alongside the golden sandy beaches like the one before the old campsite (Foinikas) and just after (Fanos and Italida), and if you continue for a maximum of ten minutes you will find yourself at the unique Pool, which is literally a small beautiful natural pool that is connected to the sea by a small underwater passage.

In the exotic colours of Pori Beach

Leaving the pool, a five-minute walk will take you to the most famous beach of Koufonisia, the exotic Pori. A large bay with turquoise shallow waters and a relatively narrow but long beach with golden sand that will enchant you and accommodate you all day long.

In the past, visitors used to arrive there on foot and of course they carried all the supplies for as long as they wanted to stay. If that sounds tiring don’t worry as now there is a road to Pori and a tavern/café with a nice view has been built for those who want to eat or drink something.

We are sure that if you do what we suggested, that is to follow the coastal path from Chora and the port of the island and walk all the way to Pori beach, you will think that you have seen a lot and your eyes have had enough of the beautiful Koufonisi. And yet, there is another gift of nature waiting for you.

The Gala beach

The beach of Gala. No, it is not a typographical error but a miracle of nature and the sea that managed to open a small passage through the rocks and create a mini pebble beach hidden from the Aegean Sea.

At Gala beach the water has a unique “milky” colour hence the strange name. This colour is due to the composition of the rocks on which the foaming sea beats and whose debris gives this particular colour.

The tiny beach of Gala used to be called Tripiti by the locals, apparently because of the hole in the rocks through which the sea “sneaks” through and comes out the other side.

From Gala beach you walk back to Pori to take Captain Kostas’ boat, your car or just walk back along the beautiful Cycladic coastal path to Chora and your accommodation.

A walk and a visit to the small town of Chora

Take a rest from swimming and exposure to the sun and get your strength to enjoy the afternoon and evening stroll around the island’s Chora. It is not a large settlement, always compared to Parikia, Naxos or even Ios Town but it will definitely take you enough time to explore it.

You will stop at the wonderful little shops with all kinds of goodies waiting for you, you will be pleasantly hit by the smells of the souvlaki shops and the wonderful tavernas on the pedestrian street, while you will stop several times to admire the simple architecture of the houses with the flowering balconies and courtyards.

Stay in Koufonisia

Several cafes and cafes will try to sweeten you up while if you feel like staying up late you will find 2-3 well-kept bars to let off steam until the small hours.

Sorokos bar in Koufonisia

The most famous and classic, and perhaps the oldest, bar on the island is of course Sorokos with jazz, soul, reggae and funky sounds, depending on the night. You will find him at the end of the harbour beach by following the small seaside alley on the right after 40-50 metres at the most. Just before that there are one or two more bars that also play nice music, with tables by the sea.

In Kato Koufonissi

From Pano Koufonissi do not miss the daily or rather 5 hour excursion by boat to Kato Koufonissi. The schedule is not strict, you can for example go with the first trip in the morning and leave with the last one. If you get bored or the sun hits you, you leave with the next one.

Ask about the frequency of the routes because it depends on the season and the traffic in Koufonissi. In Kato Koufonissi there are few houses, a taverna and a beautiful long beach that is different from the style of its “big brother” since, in contrast to the golden sand and the shallow turquoise sea, it has fine sand and deep waters.

The Nero beach

The beach is called Nero and is where Captain Kostas’ boat will drop you off. Take an umbrella, plenty of water and some fruit because beyond some rocks there is no natural shade and the beach is fortunately not yet filled with plastic umbrellas and sunbeds.

This happy fact applies even to the beaches of Pano Koufonissi so full speed ahead as long as this situation remains and be careful because some of them are completely deserted and you have to be organised if you want to stay for a long time.

Some beaches in Pano Koufonissi

In many of them, such as the port of course, Fano and Finikas, there is a taverna/cafe right behind the beach so you will have no problem finding food or water. In the famous Italian beach, just after Fanos beach, you won’t find anything but the distances are so short that it’s not a problem. In Pori as we said there is now a large cafe/restaurant on the upper side of the beach.

Access to Koufonisia

You can reach Pano Koufonissi either directly from Piraeus (stops in Paros and Naxos but with the same boat), or via Naxos. While you have time, try the small but legendary Skopelitis boat that has linked its fate to the small Cyclades and the barren line. It will take you a little longer but you’ll get a taste of sailing trips of decades past.

Koufonisia is connected to Herakleia, Schinoussa and of course the beautiful and up-and-coming tourist village of Donoussa.

Map of Koufonisia

Ελλάδα

Accommodation and rooms in Koufonisia

Photos from Koufonisia

text/photos: Yannis Tsouratzis

More Cycladic islands

Ferry tickets to Koufonisia

Avoid queues and waiting by booking your tickets here for the small paradise of the Cyclades.