Photos and the picturesque harbour in Donousa of the small Cyclades.

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Donousa in the small Cyclades with its beautiful beaches, delicious food and friendly people will definitely steal your heart.

Why Witch Donut? Because that’s what it originally said on the boat that took us on a small but magical journey. With the “Donousa Magistsa” (photo) we started from the port Stavros, went to the beach Kedros, from there to the even more beautiful and isolated beach Livadi, passed through Fykio, went for a swim in the unique Fokospilia and ended up in the remote village of Kalotaritissa with its one tavern and its many small beaches.

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Livadi Beach. Donousa, Small Cyclades

Access to Donoussa

Donousa belongs to the island complex of the Small Cyclades (along with Herakleia, Koufonisia, the uninhabited Keros and Schinoussa) and is the most remote island from the nearest port, that of Naxos. To reach its small port you will need many hours and several stops.

Perhaps the shortest route is the one from Piraeus that stops at Paros, Naxos, Koufonisia and then Donoussa. The relative difficulty of access has of course advantages since Donoussa has retained intact its traditional colour and character.

Rooms in Donousa

You certainly won’t find the variety of other larger islands but I don’t think this will affect your stay there as you will spend most of your time on the beaches and various excursions. However, you won’t be disappointed as most rooms will have a balcony overlooking the deep blue Aegean Sea at very competitive prices.

At the port of Stavros

The largest settlement of the island is Stavros, where the large and smaller ships of the line, such as the legendary Skopelitis (photo), moor. My personal opinion is that Stavros is the best choice of accommodation.

It has a large clean beach, several accommodation proposals and many tavernas for the size of the settlement. In addition, there is a small cafeteria under the tamarisks with nice music and cheap but satisfying breakfast (and not only).

The Cross in the port of Donoussa

At the Cross, where we ate, we were very happy. You can try the 2-3 tavernas that are within walking distance from where the boats dock and enjoy your fish meze with a view of the beautiful beach of Stavros.

In addition, there is another excellent tavern located just on the opposite side (right as the boat enters the harbor) with a view of the Aegean Sea! In Stavros you will also find the only ATM, convenience store and the pharmacy of the island.

At Kedros beach

But apart from the Cross, what else does Donoussa have to offer? A walk close to Stavros that we would suggest you take on foot is to the famous Kedros beach. In fact, it is worth walking it both day and night. In the morning to relax and swim in its blue waters, where with a mask you can see in relatively shallow waters and a remains of a German warship from World War II, and in the evening to enjoy the various parties that take place at the beach’s café bar.

Cedros beach as seen from behind the window of the bus that takes us to Kalotaritissa.

However, there is no standard music and it depends on the DJ that plays every night. Be sure to bring a flashlight with you because at night the streets are pitch black. But the sight of the night sky with thousands of stars is something you will remember for a long time.

To get to Kedros beach, if you start from the port you have to walk along the beach of Stavros and at the end of the beach take the uphill path on the left until you meet the main road that goes to Messaria.

After 350 meters you will see on your right a small path that will lead you to the beach.(Access instructions, follow the arrows)

Trips, excursions and movement in Donoussa

If you now want to explore the rest of the island you can, if you don’t have a car, take the public bus(timetables), follow the numerous paths with the 5 main routes or take a boat from the port and make a day trip.

The boat we took was named Donousa Magistsa and took us to “magical” places like Livadi beach and Fokospilia.

Excursion by boat to Donoussa

The owner Michalis and his captain were excellent, they explained us many things about the island and its natural landscapes and told us the history behind the places we visited.

The boats in Donousa are not only a means of excursion but also a means of transport, serving those who choose to stay in remote places such as Livadi or Kalotaritissa beach.

Livadi Beach, Fikio and the taverns in Mersini

After our first stop at the beach of Cedros, we set off for Livadi. In Livadi it is worth stopping and swimming in the amazing turquoise waters.

This particular beach is a favourite destination for nudists, which does not mean that you won’t find some bathers who don’t prefer to swim in their nude clothing.

After your swim you can walk to the nearby and small beach of Fikio which you will find by following a small path on the left side of Livadi beach, as you look at the sea.

Amorgos as seen from Donousa and the village of Mersini.

From Fykio we would suggest you walk up to the settlement of Mersini. The path is quite uphill (it goes without saying that you will have to make sure you have enough water) but your effort will be rewarded since apart from the wonderful view of the Aegean Sea and the imposing Amorgos, in Mersini you will find two taverns with great food.

The combination of the Aegean view with the delicious Cycladic dishes is well worth the effort. From Mersini you can take the municipal bus back to Stavros.

In Fokospilia

Next stop with the “Donousa Magistsa” is Phokospilia (photo). It is worth making many dives here as well and to see the unique blue natural light that the water and the rocks acquire in several places. The seabed is beautiful, the rocks above you are imposing and the macrobutts are unique experiences.

Be sure to bring a mask or swimming goggles because it’s a shame to go all the way there and not see the light play under the water.

Inside the Focospilia

Well-travelled

The last stop is the “tiny” settlement of Kalotaritissa. There you will find a large beach and two smaller ones, one on the left following a very small path on the rocks and one on the right from the road that leads to the first houses of the settlement.

On the beach of Kalotaritisa, Donoussa

We liked the main beach best but wherever you go the sea and the bottom are wonderful. Above the beach you will find the one and only taverna “o Mitsos” with fresh fish to make your visit to this beautiful corner of Donousa an ideal way to end your visit.

So, you demon witch!

Many people call it that because without realizing it, it has crept into your mind and you’re thinking about it for next summer before you even leave. It’s a “climate” so relaxed that when combined with the Cycladic landscape and the beautiful beaches and waters of Donousa, it recharges your batteries for the months to come.

It feels like a holiday and relaxation even if you are running all day trying to discover the paths that will take you from one beach to another.

The Skopelite of the Barren Line

We left Donousa with a boat that has associated its name with the Small Cyclades and the barren line. It was none other than the legendary Skopelitis which for the inhabitants of these small islands is the most regular and reliable means of access to Amorgos or Naxos (there is no permanent doctor in Donousa (July 2016, things may have changed, for the better we hope because you never know, they may change for the worse with no doctor in Naxos either due to …cuts) and residents are forced to make this trip in the dead of winter to ensure medical care in emergencies)

So Skopelitis took us from Donousa but we hope to get us back soon.

Our next destination was the beautiful Koufonisia, the coast of which we first saw after about two hours.