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Hidden for good “behind” the glamour of cosmopolitan Santorini, Anafi is a different tourist path for those who do not want to follow the beaten track. See photos of Anafi to discover a destination that has beaches with golden sand, crystal clear turquoise waters and quiet or alternative holidays, still (2023)
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Ferry routes to Anafi
As Anafi does not have an airport, access can only be made by ferry. Unfortunately, or fortunately for many, there are not many routes that cater for its increasing number of visitors.
From Piraeus, in June for example, there is only one itinerary, on a Tuesday, while last year when we visited Anafi from Athens, we flew to Heraklion and from there we took the ANEK ferry, which finally left with a 4-hour delay, for the port of Anafi. A short visit to Knossos and the renovated and treasure-filled archaeological museum of Heraklion is something we highly recommend.
Generally it is a good idea to do some research on the timetables before arranging time off work or anything else.
Ferry routes from the port of Heraklion to Crete
Of course, most ferries visit Anafi after Santorini so an alternative would be to go there for 2-3 days first and then depending on the schedules, go for more days in Anafi.
Ferry routes from Santorini to Anafi
If you are of the more alternative or generally want to avoid the many tourists, don’t miss to fly from Santorini to Thirassia.
Rooms/Accommodation in Anafi
Although “difficult” to access, Anafi in recent years welcomes more and more visitors, especially in August when you may have difficulty finding accommodation if you have not looked in advance. Although many, not to say most, prefer beaches and free camping, the same is true for them. The earlier or off-season you go, the better the site you’ll find and this is very, very important if you don’t want to wake up at the same time or even an hour later than sunrise.
Use the search form to see availability and prices.
Country Anafi
Chora of Anafi is the largest settlement on the island and would be the only one if it were not for the few houses in the harbour and above the beach of Kleisidi. In Chora you will find several rooms with wonderful views but again it would be advisable to check well in advance for availability because of course there is no comparison with the number of rooms and options available in other tourist islands. You will also find rooms in Kleisidi and the port.
Apart from the beaches you will probably spend most of your time in the beautiful Chora. It is amphitheatrically built on a hill and it is worth walking up to the small chapel at the top to enjoy the unique view of the entire Aegean Sea either to the west overlooking Santorini or to the east overlooking a large part of the settlement and almost the entire island with the imposing peninsula of Kalamos standing out.
Walk through the narrow streets of the village and discover some very nice shops for buying souvenirs and local products of the island. In Chora you will find nice tavernas, cafes and small bars with catchy music.
The best time to discover Chora of Anafi is after your midday swim around 7 o’clock, so you can walk between the whitewashed Cycladic houses to the upper square and rest while enjoying the wonderful view. Then you can eat in one of the several tavernas of the village, most of them with a view of the Aegean Sea and then enjoy your drink in one of the few bars overlooking the starry sky.
Beaches in Anafi
The options to take a bath in Anafi are really abundant. You can start from the port of the island and continue along the coast to the east and up to the monastery of Zoodochos Pigi where you will find
The next big beach is the most famous one, that of Roukouna. Split in two with campers and nudists on one side and visitors on the other, Rukunas will be unforgettable. Just before you reach the Monastery you will come across the beach of Agioi Anargyroi with the small chapel built above it and the monolith of Kalamos dominating the back. Several beaches don’t have signs to find them but you’ll know something is there by the parked cars on the side of the road.
Visit the more detailed article “Beaches in Anafi” for more details and photos.
Mount Kalamos
From this monastery, the uphill path starts for the monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa, which dominates the top of the second largest monolith in the Mediterranean, that of Kalamos. It is a huge limestone rock 460 meters high that dominates the Anafiotic landscape as it is visible almost everywhere you find yourself in Anafi.
Many walkers arrive there before sunset, watch the sunset and spend the night in the open air in order to wake up and see the unique sunrise that rises through the waters of the Aegean Sea. In the monolith of Kalamos you can also visit the Drakontospilos, a cave with a ten-metre high entrance and stalactites inside. The depth of the cave has not yet been discovered.
text/photos: Yannis Tsouratzis
Photos from Anafi
Map of Anafi
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Accommodation in Anafi
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