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The island with the strange name and the great charms that is waiting to be discovered. Lipsi, one of the smallest Dodecanese islands, is a stone’s throw from Patmos and Leros. We visited them in early July, a time when you’ll both see people and be comfortable on the island’s beaches, tavernas and ouzo bars. Lipsi, from what we were told, owes its name to the limpid shape of the island in the middle. If you’ve heard any other version, let us know.
find it quickly:
How did we get to Lipsi?
Lipsi was one of the islands on the long trip or island hopping as they call it lately in “Greek”, to the Dodecanese and the islands of the northern Aegean. Specifically, we arrived there from the beautiful Pserimos, after approaching and enjoying the ports of Kalymnos and Leros (Agia Marina), travelling with the Zephyr of SAOS.
Arriving at the port we had to walk for a couple of minutes to the room and on the way we saw that the last part of the coastal road had just been completed and had been widened. In this part, from the ferry port to the harbour with the fishing boats and the two ouzeri, you will find 3-4 nice taverns. We didn’t happen to eat but they were all quite busy during the time we were there. (more about the food in Lipsi below.)
Ferry tickets to Lipsi
At the port and the settlement of Lipsi
The beautiful harbour with the big church and the freshly painted and well-kept fishing boats really impressed us. This year the reconstruction of the harbour road was finished and all the bases for the boats and sailing boats were completed, which shows that they have taken this kind of tourism in Lipsi quite seriously.
The first impression was that it is a clean and organized settlement which the residents want to be a model for the other islands. Several small bins for the garbage, clean streets and alleys, we said for the fishing boats, organized recycling.
We loved that the beaches do not allow organized sunbeds/umbrellas and there is a formal ban on swimming pools (we have yet to find out exactly how this is interpreted).
Children and youth in Lipsi
In Lipsi there are about 800 permanent residents and there is a kindergarten and a high school, which keeps parents and youth on the island, giving life all year round! Climb up to the old building that houses the primary school and you will understand the quality of life of the children in Lipsi.
Apart from the beauty of the building and the perfect view of the bay and the village of Lipsi (which doesn’t matter much to primary school children), you will see a basketball court next to the building and a football field behind it, which was enjoyed by about 10 kids when we went there. In addition, we were impressed by the fact that there are two tennis courts with turf, something we saw for the first time on a Greek island of similar size!
And a little parenthesis here about sports facilities. There are larger villages, see Marmari Evia, that don’t even have a basketball court for the youth of the village and for the numerous visitors in the summer. (We should mention here that in Marmari Evia in particular there used to be a basketball court but they turned it into a car park, without moving the basketball court to another place, not even a basketball court was placed somewhere else! But you will say to me “what more common thing to happen”)
Therefore, the residents of Lipsi should feel very lucky or simply justified in having their wishes and requests fulfilled by the local authorities.
Where do I go swimming in Lipsi?
As we have said about other islands, the first thing is to discover the beaches and the paths leading to them. If you are not into walking or driving, very close to the port you will find the small beach of Liedou. A 5-10 minute walk from Lipsi and you will find the very beautiful beach of Campos. For the rest of the beaches, which are several, you will either have to walk more than 15 minutes or take a transport.
It should be mentioned here that when the weather allows, you can also see the surrounding islands such as Aspronisia with its magnificent white beach and unique waters and seabed. We didn’t go now but we visited them by boat from Leros when we went a few years ago.
Lipsi Beach-Kochimia
The beautiful and somewhat deserted Komimisi, took its name of course from the chapel of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. It is worth having a mask and snorkel to enjoy the seabed and the rocks at both ends of the beach.
Once you have reached there, it is worth walking along the wide and comfortable path (somewhat uphill in some places) that will lead you to the church of Pano Panagia (Assumption of the Virgin Mary). Apart from the religious reasons, we highly recommend you to go especially for the unique view in front of the church with the Aegean Sea and its islands plate in front of you.
If you have not left your transport down at the beach of Komisii and have come on foot, return by the upper path that takes you well above the beach, thus avoiding much of the uphill (if you zoom in on the map below you will see the two paths from the beach and back)
Lipsi Beach-Platys Gialos
Another beach in Lipsi that you should not miss is Platis Gialos, not so much for the beach, which is not saying much, but for the waters and the sandy bottom. We also had a fresh atherina (I saw grandfather and grandson fishing for it) with a cold beer at the taverna just above.
We reached Platys Gialos on foot after the beach and the chapel of Koimiseos. If you’re not into walking, there is a bus with a go and a come route to and from the beach (early July was like that). To make your time more convenient, you can call a taxi which if I remember correctly costs 5 euros one way to or from the port. See the schedules at the big bakery on the island (Bakery Kairi) across the street from the big square as well.
Beach in Lipsi – Katsadia
Katsadia is a relatively small and quite narrow beach with crystal clear shallow waters. Right next to it and to the right as you arrive from the road, you will find 3-4 more small and almost close to each other, beaches. It is worth walking around and discovering them especially if there are a lot of people in Katsadia. As in other Aegean islands, “door open, door close”, you will know what I mean when you get there :)
Dinner in Lipsi and a five-star omelette
From the harbour you can find taverns and ouzo shops, while in the narrow streets of the settlement of Lipsi you will find good food. We stayed three nights in Lipsi and our diet was as follows. Perfect and hearty breakfast at the main bakery of Kairis (you will find it easily) where the special omelette (I think they call it gourmet) with 5 eggs was delicious. Yes, 5 eggs, you read that right. The first day I shared it, the second day I ate it all by myself! It was a nutritional bomb that kept me going until after my afternoon swim though.
With such a breakfast, the next meal was either after the evening bath at 8 o’clock or even later. Twice we ate at the taverns on the beaches. At Platis Gialos for fresh fish and cold beer and at the tavern-restaurant, with the curious name Dilaila, just above Katsadia beach. Everything we ate was delicious accompanied by old folk dishes and tsipouraki or souma, which we will discuss below.
Suma and grilled
In the settlement and port of Lipsi we ate twice in the traditional ouzo restaurant of Sophocles. Octopus, fava, grilled calamari and other things that were perfect. Nice old Greek music at the right volume and perfect service. Sophocles we learned and saw that he does some great shenanigans and jokes so expect it. There we also tried the local tsipouro called Souma. We drank enough to accompany the grilled octopus and squid without the slightest bit of discomfort the next day. We highly recommend it to Sophocles. (We didn’t try it elsewhere and that’s why I’m only writing to Sophocles.)
The last night we ate at Manolis Tastes restaurant, where you will find more sophisticated dishes such as crayfish tartare and other dishes, without missing the fresh fish (the price per kilo was the same as in the taverna in Pserimos, so even though it is more classy, the prices are the same as in the other islands). We had several appetizers and two main courses and were completely satisfied. Manolis, the owner, seemed like a very nice man who is worth getting to know.
Accommodation in Lipsi
We went in early July and found it relatively difficult. Two friends who wanted to book for mid to late July didn’t make it. What does that mean? That there are either few accommodations or high demand, often both. So arrange early for accommodation in Lipsi and don’t go to the island without booking something.
We stayed as we said above, in the neat and clean rooms of Mrs. Katerina(Studio Katerina) and we were completely satisfied. We were even greeted with cold water and a perfect double Greek coffee. After sitting down with her and catching up, we settled into our room and began our tour of the port and the town of Lipsi.
If he forgets to give you a map of Lipsi, ask for it because it is excellent with all the beaches and especially the hiking trails that are worth discovering. Alternatively, you can download it from here in PDF format (I found it on the official website of the municipality of Lipsi in July 2022).
Ferry tickets to Lipsi
Alternative accommodation
For the 3rd night there were no rooms available neither in Studio Katerina where we stayed nor in the new Villakia Katerina and so we looked for rooms at the last minute. Luckily we found the Marina Rooms which is right on the promenade and the harbour. So nice view but the rooms need immediate renovation.
Everything was working properly of course but the feeling of the old hits hard. The hostess welcomed us warmly, even gave us a delicious homemade cake and served us a double Greek coffee.
The price at Marina Rooms was one of the best in Lipsi so if you don’t care about some basic amenities or just want to stay somewhere cheap for a couple of days, Marina Rooms is a good alternative although we repeat that it is obvious that the new generation should take over.
More accommodation suggestions in Lipsi
Walking to the beaches and through the settlement of Lipsi we saw some interesting accommodation while we also looked for some with good ratings.
One example is Studios Akrogialli, on the coastal road overlooking the port. While swimming at Leidou beach, we saw that a lot of people were coming out of the Aphrodite Hotel, 50 meters from the port and the promenade.
In the center of the settlement, under the cathedral you will find the Lemon tree with the excellent rating, with rooms and rooftop terrace overlooking the settlement and the harbor.
Inside the village and with equally good rating you will find Michalis’ Studios while if you want something excellent, quiet, in a prominent position on the island with perfect views and rooms we would recommend Nefeli Villas Ta Liopetra. It is one of the most expensive but you will love it from the first moment.
See some of the photos of the hotels and accommodation in Lipsi
More photos from Lipsi
Map with beaches in Lipsi
Πρόσβαση με καϊκι από Λειψούς ή το λιμάνι της Λέρου
Συνεχίστε αριστερά της παραλίας όπως φτάνετε για να ανακαλύψετε 3-4 ακόμα μικρές αλλά όμορφες παραλίες. Πρόσβαση μονο με τα πόδια
Η θέα στο Αιγαίο απο εδώ ειναι εκπληκτική
Download the excellent map of Lipsi here in PDF format (I found it on the official website of the municipality of Lipsi in July 2022).
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